Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Adventures with Cheesecloth

Guess who's the proud owner of forty yards of cheesecloth?


Really, though, when Tuesday Morning is selling it in packages of 10 yards for $5, how do you not buy all 4 available packages? (Don't worry, the lady at the checkout was a seamstress too so she totally understood).

Full disclosure, I've never dyed fabric before, and I'm pretty sure that I went about this the completely wrong way. In hindsight, I should have used RIT dye and just saved myself all the trouble and anxiety, but unfortunately I didn't have time to drive all the way out to the craft store and if I ordered it online it would have arrived last week while I was out of town, and I really wanted to get this done before I left.

Interestingly, there's quite the wealth of tutorials for dyeing cheesecloth, because apparently colorful cheesecloth wraps are a must-have for infant photography. So after quite a bit of research, I came up with a game plan: Kool-Aid.

Yep, everyone's favorite flourescent "fruit" drink. Seeing as this stuff can stain just about anything, including your insides, I figured it would be the perfect fabric dye, and most of the other bloggers I'd read agreed.

I started with one package (10 yards) of cheesecloth, cut into two just to make it easier to work with. Some people said to soak it in water first but others said to put it in dry; I ended up soaking it but wringing it out before putting it in the dye bath. I don't know if this actually did anything or not.

There was no real recipe for the dye bath - I was kind of making things up as I went along - but this is generally what I did:

1. Boil eight cups of water in a large pot.

2. In a large measuring cup, mix two cups of vinegar, three packets of lemon-lime Kool-Aid, two mugs of coffee and a little bit of salt.


This is when I discovered something really interesting: Lemon-lime Kool-Aid, coffee and vinegar smell really bad when mixed together, and this will end up perfuming both you and your kitchen. Mix at your own risk.



3. Add the dye mix to the boiling water and mix well.
4. Remove the pot from the heat and add the cheesecloth, stirring to make sure it's entirely covered in dye. Cover and let sit.

From here I stirred it ocassionally to make sure the coverage was even; if you want fully even color you should probably stir it more often, but I was actually hoping for more of the natural variation look.

I let it sit like that for almost 24 hours, stirring every once in a while. A few hours in I was worried that it wouldn't be dark enough so I added about two bottles of food coloring, which I'd also read about as a potential dye.



Anyhoo, long story short it could only sit in the dye for so long. It was time for the moment of truth ... (drumroll please ...)



Look at that beautiful color!!


.... And look at how much of it washed off :(

I did manage to dye my hands and the pot, but the fabric didn't take it all that well.


This was okay, because I actually did need a very big piece of light green for the design - but it was clear that Kool-Aid wasn't going to cut it for the rest of the fabric. It seemed like I was going to have to push the project back to dangerously close to the deadline by waiting for RIT dye to arrive, but while in Tuesday Morning I stumbled upon a magnificent find:


A $7 Kid's Tie-Dye kit!! Have I mentioned how much I love this store? You can't go in expecting to find anything, but when you stumble upon a gem like this it's really, really exciting.

The kit came with six bottles of dye designed to be used on 100% cotton t-shirts, so this seemed like a much better fit for my cotton cheesecloth. I only used the blue, green and yellow dyes and then played around with it from there to achieve various colors.

(The kit also came with lots of gloves, which is even more exciting. No more green hands!!)

Since I wanted lots of different shades of green, I cut my three remaining packages of cheesecloth into two relatively equal pieces each. I then soaked each piece in water while I mixed the dye.


Since I wanted mixed colors, I decided to start with a bit of water in a chaffing pan, then pour color over the cheesecloth. I then kneaded it into cheesecloth, thereby breaking every rule of tie-dye but achieving some nice, even colors.

I dyed each piece in the same pan and just added new dye each time, playing around with the ratios of blue to green to yellow, so I can't say how much of each dye went into each color. It wasn't really a precise science.


After coloring each piece I put it in a ziploc bag per the tie-dye instructions and let it sit overnight. I decided to make five of my six pieces green, but for the last piece I wanted brown, so it was back to improvised dyes.


Since the coffee seemed to be what had taken the most to the cheesecloth with attempt one, it made a second appearance. To make it darker I added a few packets of soy sauce, an idea I'd read on this photography blog. This got to stew overnight as well.


When I washed these out, they definitely lost color, but not nearly as dramatically as the Kool-Aid. Interestingly, it seemed like the green dye was the weakest, as my teal batch washed out to mostly blue. Not a problem, though. My one regret is that I don't have any real forrest green. This could probably be achieved by RIT dye, but I have neither the time nor the cheesecloth for this.


Overall, this was a pretty fun process, and I'd love to try my hand at more dyeing in the future. I love the control I get over the colors, and it's much more cost effective then buying a bunch of small swathes in various shades.

Technically speaking, the due date for the Top Secret Project is tomorrow, but I still haven't begun any of the actual sewing part so we'll see how that goes ...

Anyhoo, in the meantime please enjoy another beautiful picture of my cheesecloth:



- Emma

Friday, May 20, 2016

Green

Today we're talking about fairies!!!

I can't reveal why I'm making a fairy dress right now because it's part of a Top Secret Project™ but here we go anyway.

There are few things that bother me more than cutesy-Halloween-Disney fairy costumes. I mean, sure, they have their time and place - I actually made a couple for a 5th grade Sleeping Beauty once, so I can't judge them too harshly. But for the most part, they just scream synthetic kitschyness to me.

Source
Can't you just feel the polyester??

Polyester isn't all bad, of course, but I feel like if anything shouldn't be synthetic it's a fairy - they're magical beings of nature, after all.

When I think of fairies I think of those beautiful old illustrations for Grimm stories or A Midsummer Night's Dream. You know, where it looks like they're wearing flowers:



And then for A Midsummer Night's Dream specifically:



Actually, this dress fits in with an aesthetic I had in mind for a hypothetical production of A Midsummer Night's Dream (this hypothetical production is not the Top Secret Project™).

Basically, in my mind all the Athenians wear white and denim, the Rude Mechanicals wear cast t-shirts and pretentious, artsy hats and the fairies all wear flowy natural fibers and hippie beads and just generally look like nature flower children.

Titania, Queen of the Fairies
(Fun fact: Most of my design drawings end up faceless and appendage-less. We shall pretend that this is an artistic choice rather than a reflection on my lack of drawing talent.)

There's a whole pinterest board of my Midsummer designs and quite a few drawings because I'm a cool human who designs Shakespeare productions for fun, but that's not what this post is about so tangent ended.

The idea is to make a plain A-line dress and overlay it with layers of cheesecloth in various hues of green. I'm not sure how it'll work out, but hopefully we'll get a sort of bohemian, flowy, layered look kind of like these:




I drew a design that's only marginally better than the Titania drawing; it doesn't really capture my view for the dress (particularly because I don't know how to draw the hemline so it doesn't look like Tinkerbell). But anyway, that's the plan.



I picked up some cheesecloth for a steal at Tuesday Morning so next up will be my adventures in dyeing it. Stay tuned!

- Emma

And so it begins ...



Hello world. My name is Emma and I sew in a closet.

Actually, though. It would seem that the only good place for my sewing machine is in my bedroom closet, amidst my shoes and clothes and all manner of other clutter. 



I tell myself that it's artsy and pinterest-y, but it's still 100% a closet. No complaints, though!

I've been sewing for about as long as I can remember. When I was nine I got my first sewing machine and used it to make lots of doll dresses and one hideous Easter dress, but I didn't discover historical costuming until an eighth grade history project prompted me to create a horribly inaccurate civil war dress in under a week with absolutely no prior experience. 

(This lack of thinking out projects before I start them and leaving things to the last minute will be a trend. Take note now.)

Anyhoo, long story short I've been stalking the blogosphere for quite a long time now, and figured it was time to finally add my voice to the mix. So, here goes nothing.

(I feel like I should introduce myself ... so how about five facts about me? That sounds good.)

1. My area of expertise is about 1775 onwards, but the 1600s have been calling me recently so we'll see where that goes ...

2. I'm a huge classic lit nerd, and this 100% influences my sewing. Jane Austen, Charles Dickens, Margaret Mitchell ... expect lots of literary inspired sewing projects.

3. I'm a huge theater nerd with a love for costume design. I've done costumes for a few shows at this point and am looking to do more in the future, so expect that too.

4. I have dubious standards for historical accuracy. I feel like everyone has their own hierarchy of what's important to historical costuming, and I'm no different. I'd love to explore this in more detail later on, but for now, know that I'm a stickler for seamlines and fabrics and general outward appearance, but I'm not above faking it behind the scenes. Oh, and proper undergarments are a must!!! :)

5. And finally, the inspiration for this blog title: I very, very rarely follow directions. Actually, I'm a Hermione Granger-level rule follower in real life, but I don't think I've ever sewn a pattern without changing something. Sometimes it's because I think I know better than the pattern makers, sometimes it's because I'm lazy. Oftentimes it ends badly, but hey, what's life without a few poorly calculated risks? (And by risks I mean not following the cutting diagrams because I'm really rebellious guys, I promise).

Alright. Here we go. Time to sew some stuff.

~ Emma